Saturday, April 30, 2011

Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part2 - Sea Trip to Solovetsky

   As it has been mentioned in the previous part ships and motor boats sailing to Solovki from Kem usually leave Kem harbor in the morning. As for me I booked tickets for the motor ship "Vasily Kosyakov" with departure from Kem at 08:00.

Ships going from the karelian shore of the White sea cannot be called comfortable ones. Maybe due to the small distance and the time of sailing from the shore to Solovetsky archipelago, maybe due to lack of ships... ), I don't know. Larger ships are more comfortable than the smaller sea motor boats from point of view of the possibly stormy sea, but the motor boats can be considered enough safe for such trips, also.
Most comfortable ships, actually cruise ships, go to Solovki from Archangelsk.

The White sea is often misty in the morning and you won't see its splendid panoramas during the beginning of your sea trip to Solovetsky islands. I've "catched" the most interesting views on my way back, from the islands to Kem harbor.

View on the harbor of Kem and Rabocheostrovsk township

One of the motor boats sailing to Solovki islands

One of the first smaller islands of Solovetsky archipelago seen on the way from Kem

Islands of Kuzova archipelago

   Kuzova islands are covered by spruces (fir trees) - green color on the photo. The whole archipelago is a nature reserve.
   These photos were made on the way back to Kem, and as I've already mentioned in the previous part, it's worth taking a good binocular to view the panoramas of Kuzova and a good camera to make photos of these islands.

Again, a panorama of Kuzova islands


Thursday, April 7, 2011

Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part1 - Getting to Solovki

   Solovki islands are probably the least achievable tourist attraction among the most famous ones situated in the north-western part of Russia.

First of all, you can travel to Solovki by plane, from Moscow or from the city of Archangelsk which stands on the eastern shore of the White sea. This way is rather expensive, of course, and the flights are not always regular, though it is the only way to visit the islands from October till May, i.e. for example, in winter.

Some people say that Solovki should be visited by boat, only. This way includes a sea trip and the panoramas of the White sea are surely worth seeing.

If you prefer to travel by boat you'll have to choose a route that will include one of the towns on the White sea coast. Ships sail to Solovki islands from the towns of Belomorsk and Kem on the western shore of the sea and from the city of Archangelsk situated on its eastern shore.

A boat trip from the town of Kem will be the shortest one, it will take about 2 hours 30 min, from the town of Belomorsk about twice longer. Sailing from Archangelsk is rather long sea trip - about 12 hours.

If you would like to compare the distances just have a look at this map of the White Sea
The map doesn't show the location of Kem, but this town is located right to the west from Solovki (Solovetsky islands) and thus to the north from Belomorsk.

I cannot say what way I would choose if it were equally easy for me to get to Kem, to Belomorsk and to Archangelsk. But if you prefer to travel by sea from Archangelsk I would advise you to keep in mind the "friendly" nature of the White sea which will meet you with very cold wind even in July and is more or less stormy through all summer.

As for me, starting my trip to Solovki from Petrozavodsk, my native city, I had to choose between Belomorsk and Kem, only.

As far as a ship sailing from Kem should pass the numerous islands of Kuzova archipelago on its way to Solovki I've chosen this variant. I guess there were some other small reasons for my choice, but this was the most important one.

Anticipating the description of this sea trip I'll say that to see well all the beautiful nature of Kuzova you should have binoculars and to make photos of it don't forget a very good camera, or at least one with very good zoom.

So, I decided to travel via Kem.

The next step was the timetable of ships from Kem. As a rule, all ships and sea motor boats sailing from Kem to Solovki leave Kem in the morning and return to it in the evening, only. So they make only one return trip to the islands, every day.
Most of trains going through Kem arrive at this town too late or too early for boarding a ship to Solovki. Going to Kem by car (bus, etc.) at night is not a good choice also, with this road. That's why the larger part of tourists travelling to Solovki have to stay at one of hotels in Kem for two nights: before and after the trip to the islands itself.
I got to know two hotels of this town "Kuzova" and "Prichal". "Prichal" is the most comfortable one, stands near the sea shore and, actually, close to the harbor of Kem. "Kuzova" is situated in the centre of the town and you'll need to take a taxi to get to the harbor from there. As far as all rooms at "Prichal" had been booked I could choose only "Kuzova".

Small room at "Kuzova" hotel
Here I've spent 2 nights during my trip:)

Hotel "Prichal"
"Prichal" hotel consists of several rather small wooden buildings - on the photo.
   Official website of "Prichal" hotel.