Trip to Valaam Monastery in Russia. Travel Experience

   Valaam is a group of islands situated in the very northern part of lake Ladoga, close to the western border of european Russia. Valaam islands are mostly known as the location place of Valaam monastery, one of the most well-known and ancient monasteries in Russia.



Arrival to Valaam Island

   If you try to find out how old is this monastery you'll get different numbers, from 500-600 to one thousand years ago. In my opinion, the age of Valaam monastery is not the main circumstance that makes this place worth visiting. Valaam is also very picturesque nature of Ladoga and really impressive masterpieces of architecture.

An Old Stone Cross (there in the middle, on the opposite shore)

   Most easily, you can start a water trip to Valaam islands from one of the following places: St. Petersburg, Priozersk and Sortavala.

   St. Petersburg stands near the opposite shore of lake Ladoga and it will take more than several hours to get to the islands from this beautiful city. You can travel onboard one of many cruise ships like the one on the photo below. Cruise companies often combine excursion to Valaam with excursion to Kizhi Island (lake Onega) and some other interesting sights into one trip.

A Cruise Ship Standing in a Harbor of Valaam

   If you're not a fan of cruises you can travel by a smaller ship from the town of Priozersk or from the town of Sortavala. Priozersk is closer to St. Petersburg (about 130 km / 81 miles) and Sortavala is closer to Valaam. A ship from Priozersk goes about 1,5-2 hours, a ship from Sortavala about 1 hour.

   It's not easy to buy tickets if you prefer to visit Valaam on your own, without a travel agency. Almost the only possible way is to try to get on the ship during its embarkation, if there are vacant seats.

   Actually, booking a trip with guided excursion from a travel company is rather good idea as far as it's not easy to find all paths and sights yourself on the vast area of Valaam islands.

   Having said some words about the transport and how to get to Valaam I'll proceed to the description of a trip to Valaam from Sortavala.

   First of all, few words about this interesting town. Sortavala is a small town that doesn't look very russian. For some time it belonged to the territory of Finland, that's why today we can see there different nice finnish buildings.

   In Sortavala you can visit the museum of Kronid Gogolev which becomes more and more popular in Russia and abroad. Kronid Gogolev was an extraodinary talented artist who lived in the 20th and the beginning of the 21st century (most or all of his life here, in Sortavala, as I remember). When I visited Sortavala few years ago he was still alive... In the museum you'll see his masterpieces - kind of pictures where all the images are very skillfully carved in wood. Here is one of them.

A Picture from the Museum of Kronid Gogolev

   After its short trip from Sortavala the ship arrives to the harbor situated in the Monastery Bay of Valaam Island. I think, I should make it clear that the largest island of the archipelago is also called Valaam (not only the whole archipelago). As you can see on the photo there's not so much space for ships in this harbor.

In the Monastery Bay of Valaam Island

   A hundred steps away from the shore line you'll see interesting stairs leading to the top of the rocky hill where you'll find the central buildings of Valaam monastery.

Valaam Monastery with the Cathedral of the Transfiguration

   After you enter the monastery gates taking any photos and video is strictly prohibited. Besides the Transfiguration cathedral travellers usually visit the monastery cemetary and listen to the church singing of famous Valaam choir. On the monastery cemetary you can see graves of different monks. I remember among them there was even a king of Sweden who lived few hundred years ago and became a monk due to some circumstances.

   After the central part of the monastery travellers usually visit some sketes situated on other parts of Valaam island or even on other islands of the archipelago.

   The word "skete" in russian originally means a kind of place, small dwelling, where few monks live. For Valaam, skete is a separate place where several monks can live. Here a skete has usually got a church and some household buildings. There's about one dozen sketes on Valaam.

   Travellers often visit the Skete of the Resurrection. There it's also possible to have a dinner, at the monastery canteen, on the photo.


Monastery Canteen (Skete of the Resurrection)

   As well it's easy to see Gefsimansky Skete. Here is how it looked like in the process of restoration...


Gefsimansky Skete in the Process of Restoration

   and that's how it looks now


Gefsimansky Skete after the Restoration (source: http://valaam.ru/ru/restoration/photos.php?id=2334)

   On the way to or from the Monastery Bay of Valaam, when you sail on a ship, you can see the church of Nickolsky Skete (the Skete of St. Nicholas). From my point of view it's the most beautiful architectural masterpiece of Valaam.

the Church of St. Nicholas Skete

   As I've already mentioned Valaam is also beautiful nature with views like this one


View from the Highest Point of Valaam Island

   On Valaam you can walk along the long wooden alleys with trees planted by monks two or more hundred years ago, find different hidden places connected with the ancient history of the monastery, see the inner lakes of Valaam island, visit other islands of the archipelago...

   They say that one day isn't enough to feel all the beauty of Valaam... though, of course, it's better than not seeing this place at all.

Travelling in Russia from St. Petersburg. Sights, Tours, Regions, Itineraries...

   If you're going to visit Russia for tourist, business, study, professional or other purposes it's rather possible that you'll spend a few days or even live in St. Petersburg, famous russian city standing on the Baltic coast.

   St. Petersburg itself with all its suburbs and attractions of the region has got much to offer for those who'd like to get acquainted with Russia. But, staying in such a vast country finally makes it interesting to travel to different regions and to discover some remote places and itineraries.

   Let's look on the map below to find out what parts of Russia you can more or less easily visit during a tour from St. Petersburg.

Travelling in Russia from St. Petersburg:  Towns and Regions

    Right to the south from St. Petersburg we see Pskov region and Novgorod region with their capitals in Pskov town and in the town of Veliky Novgorod, respectively. Veliky Novgorod is also called, with translation from russian, Great Novgorod.

   To the east from St. Petersburg you can see Vologda region and its capital town Vologda. And to the north the map shows us Karelia region which is also officially called Republic of Karelia with its capital in Petrozavodsk.

   Farther to the north and to the north-east you can find Murmansk and Arkhangelsk regions and the Republic of Komi. These parts of Russia can be called rather remote ones already.

   Farther to the south there are Tver region and other regions of central Russia with Moscow and lot of towns known as the Golden Ring.

   The town of Veliky Novgorod (Great Novgorod) is situated close to St. Petersburg, just about 180 km (112 miles) from it. It will take you about 2-3 hours to get there by car. And simultaneously you'll travel in time.

   Great Novgorod is known as the most ancient town in Russia, since it's history has begun about 12 centuries ago and the whole novgorodian land is the oldest part of Russia. Novgorod Kremlin (fortress), various temples and uncountable monasteries, everything breathes here with mysterious and beautiful history of Russia, from its earliest age.

Novgorod Kremlin (source: novportal.ru)

One of the Ancient Churches of Great Novgorod (source: novportal.ru)

Svyato-Yuriev Monastery and Lake Ilmen (source: novportal.ru)

Novgorod Museum of Wooden Architecture "Vitoslavlitsy" (source: novportal.ru)

   The town of Pskov is situated farther from St. Petersburg, about 280 km (174 miles), and about 240 km / 150 miles (by car) from Veliky Novgorod. It's a good idea to visit both of these towns and their surroundings during one trip.

   Pskov is almost as ancient as Veliky Novgorod but its uniqueness also originates from the fact that it has been always located very close to the western borders of Russia. During several centuries this town was the greatest fortress of Russia with multiple thick and very long walls, lots of towers and gates.

   Though only a part of those fortifications exists nowadays they are enough to imagine the defensive power of Pskov during the past centuries.

Pskov Kremlin (Pskov Fortress). Cathedral of St. Trinity (source: www.tourism.pskov.ru)

Pokrovskaya Tower of Pskov Fortress (source: www.tourism.pskov.ru)

The Fifth Circle of Fortifications of Pskov Fortress. Buildings of the 15th Century (source: www.old-pskov.ru)

   Vologda region has got almost as long history as the regions of Pskov and Novgorod. Russian people lived here from the times of scandinavian vikings.

   The town of Vologda is sometimes called "the lace capital of Russia". It has also got very nice kremlin, so usual for old towns in Russia, but the kremlin is not the only major sight of Vologda.

   Being for several centuries one of the most remote parts of Russia the region of Vologda has probably preserved even brighter reminders of the past than Pskov and Novgorod.

One of Plenty Nice Historical Wooden Houses in Vologda Town (source: vologdatourinfo.ru)

Frescoes of Dionisy in Ferapontov Monastery, 1502-1503 years (source: vologdatourinfo.ru)

A Girl in Traditional Clothes (source: vologdatourinfo.ru)

Mikhailo-Arkhangelsky Monastery. Town of Veliky Ustuyg (source: vologdatourinfo.ru)

   Karelia region (Republic of Karelia) is probably mostly known for its three great sights: Kizhi, Valaam and Solovetsky islands. Solovetsky islands are actually situated on the territory of Arkhangelsk region, not Karelia, though closer to the karelian shore of the White sea and near the border between these two regions.

   Karelia is also known as a land of beautiful nature with over 61,000 lakes and 23,000 rivers, with nice rocks and waterfalls. During your trip to Karelia you can see two largest lakes of Europe: Ladoga and Onego (sometimes also called Onega).

   It's also interesting to visit local villages and get acquainted with traditions, culture and life of people during a tour to this region of Russia.

   The main city of the region, Petrozavodsk is situated not far from St. Petersburg, about 450 km (280 miles), though the whole region stretches far to the north.

Famous Kizhi Pogost. Kizhi Island (source: www.travel-to-russian-karelia.com)

In the Monastery Bay of Valaam Islands

One of Thousands Lakes of Karelia

   If you travel from St. Petersburg to Karelia or Vologda region and have enough time to extend your tour in Russia you can also visit Arkhangelsk region and/or Republic of Komi. As it has been said already, above, these two regions are rather remote ones. They are very vast ones, also.

   The variety of cultural and natural heritage of Arkhangelsk region deserves a special separate description. And the Republic of Komi is interesting first of all for it's majestic natural sights, here you can visit the northern part of Ural Mountains, this beautiful and grandiose natural border between Europe and Asia.

   If you would like to visit the very north of european Russia your itinerary will lead you to Murmansk region and to the city of Murmansk, situated in the northern polar zone of our planet. During such a tour you can see polar days (or nights), northern lights, the Barents sea of the Arctic Ocean and, of course, the unique nature of the region with its mountain views and other nice places.

How to Get to Petrozavodsk, Kizhi, Solovetsky, Other Places in Karelia from St. Petersburg

   Since Karelia is a region situated in North-West of Russia it's logical to suppose that it can be easily visited from St. Petersburg. Being the second-largest city of Russia, its cultural and tourist capital, as well as being located very close to european countries St. Petersburg proves the correctness of that idea.

   Before speaking of any exact routes, transport and sights (this information is given below), lets look at the map that will show as local geography.


Karelia (Russian Republic of Karelia) on the map

    As far as Petrozavodsk is the main and only city of Karelia it's more than possible that you'll visit it on your way to other parts of Karelia. The distance between St. Petersburg and Petrozavodsk is about 420 kilometres (260 miles) - by car, train, etc. If to speak about the time things are the following. To get to Petrozavodsk by car will take you around 6-7 hours, the fastest trains cover the distance between St. Petersburg and Petrozavodsk in 7 hours.

   Though there are automobile roads and railroads going both around the south-eastern and around the north-western shore of lake Ladoga, the shortest way to Petrozavodsk is the one which runs to the south-east from this largest european lake.

   Trains going on these directions follow from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and farther to the north: to the towns on the western coast of the White sea and to the city of Murmansk, to the very north of european Russia.

   Let's say some words about buying/booking russian train tickets. First of all, of course, you can buy tickets at any ticket office of Russian Railways located on the territory of Russia. The offices are actually located in the buildings of railway stations, though not only. But, if you do not speak russian this way will most probably be very problematic.

   The english version of the official website of Russian Railways http://eng.rzd.ru/ doesn't give any opportunities to buy or book tickets, unfortunately. (Maybe the situation will change in the future?). Though, still it can give you some useful information about trains.

   If you search for, for example, "buy russian train tickets online" on the internet you'll find lots of websites which offer this kind of service. I cannot recommend any exact agency here, but I can say that they usually offer different variants of delivery to almost any place in the world, and this circumstance makes their services rather helpful. Though, price for the tickets will be higher than at a ticket office somewhere in Russia.

   Russian Railways usually sell tickets no more than 45 days prior to the date of departure.

   If the purpose of your travel is Petrozavodsk I would recommend train #658A. It's an overnight train with departures from St. Petersburg in the evening at 22:02 and arrivals to Petrozavodsk the next morning at 06:50. It goes every day, from Ladozhsky railway station. Of course the timetable can be changed but one of the reasons why I recommend this train is that it has got the most changeless schedule. The train also has got name "Kalevala" but it's used rather rarely. The return train "Petrozavodsk-St. Petersburg" has got number 657A.


Petrozavodsk Railway Station.

   There are several other trains that pass through Petrozavodsk. Let's mention two of them: "St.Petersburg-Murmansk" #022Ч and "Moscow-Murmansk" #016A (the second one goes via St. Petersburg also). These trains will be your choice you if you're going to the White sea with Solovetsky islands and other places of this area. Both of them will take you to the towns of the karelian White Sea coast, to Kem and Belomorsk from where you can continue your journey to Solovetsky and other sights of this region.
   More details about a sea trip to Solovetsky (Solovki islands) have been described in the following posts: Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part1 - Getting to Solovki and Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part2 - Sea Trip to Solovetsky.

   If you'd like to visit the famous Island of Kizhi with Kizhi Pogost that is situated in lake Onego (on the map also) to the north-east from Petrozavodsk, the first your step should be getting to Petrozavodsk. Here you can buy ticket for a small speed motor ship called "hydrofoil" going to this island. This water trip will take 1 hour 20 minutes (or, about that). You can find more information about such a trip in one of the previous posts Hydrofoil Trip to Kizhi Island. Travel Experience.

   I'm not speaking here about cruises from St. Petersburg to Valaam and Kizhi which usually last 3 days or a little more and are an alternative to the travel variant described above.

   As for Valaam Islands with Valaam Monastery, these sights are actually closer to St. Petersburg than to Petrozavodsk. Valaam Islands are situated in the north of Ladoga lake, close to the town of Sortavala (also, see on the map). You can visit this place in one day or include it into a multi-day trip from St. Petersburg to Karelia.
   Hydrofoils and other motor ships to Valaam go from the towns of Sortavala and Priozersk. Such a trip onboard a hydrofoil from Sortavala will take about 1 hour, from Priozersk - about 1 hour 30 min. Priozersk is closer to St. Petersburg.

  

Countryside Holidays in Karelia: How to Have a Good Rest

   Though Russia is often imagined as a country with great part of rural population most of its citizens today live in cities or big towns and the urbanization process even seems to come to its top point soon. Growing problems of big cities make more and more people to "run away" from these "giant anthills" to the countryside. Nevertheless, the comfort level of the countryside life in Russia is still very low (and is not going to change much in the nearest future), that's why almost nobody prefers to move away from her/his city once and forever. Most of people prefer some medium variant and choose countryside to spend all their holidays and most of weekends.

   In recent 10-15 years the popularity of Karelia as a destination for countryside holidays has grown hugely. If to speak about the reasons there are two main ones. Firstly, Karelia is a region of Russia with no big cities and with astonishing and mostly untouched nature. Secondly, Karelia is situated not far from the two largest cities of Russia: Moscow and St. Petersburg, and not too far from the central part of Russia where the density of its urban population is the highest one.



Karelia on the map of Russia and Europe (see the top right of the map)



   Though some people buy houses in various places of Karelia, most of those who wish to have a rest here choose to rent a house/cottage or just to stay at a small countryside hotel.

   Here I'd like to point out two first typical features of all these places to have rest.

1. Such a cottage/house or a countryside hotel usually stands close to a lake. Being located right on a lake shore is actually a kind of standard for Karelia. This can be one of two largest lakes: Ladoga and Onego, or one of thousands smaller lakes the amount of which is really great here.

2. All the buildings are usually made of wood: pine logs and/or other wooden materials.

   A lake near the place where you stay will give you good additional opportunities for rest and entertainment such as fishing, boating or sailing and other things like that without wasting time and money.

   Wood is actually one of the most ecological materials, it is usually considered absolutely harmless and sometimes even useful for health. Solid wood doesn't contain and desorb any harmful substances so it won't contaminate air inside the building. Furthermore, pure wooden materials allow the air to circulate better between the inside and the outside of the building.



A wooden cottage made of pine logs, in Karelia

   Now let's try to classify all these countryside accommodations (at least how they can be categorized in Karelia).

1. Guest houses. Obviously, means "house for guests", more detailed explanation of the meaning will be given below.

2. Separate house/cottage. That means only one house or cottage for rent at that place. It can be situated in or near a village or even just be surrounded by forest.

3. Several or more cottages or small hotels - this variant most usually should be called "a lodge". Such a lodge also can be situated near a village or be surrounded by forest and lake.

   A real guest house means that its owners live in the same house too, or they live in a separate house but located very close to this one. Furthermore, the owners render at least a part of services for their guests themselves. A good guest house also means that you'll have some homemade products such as milk and dairy products, meat, some fresh vegetables in your meals.

   The second variant of accommodation means that you'll live in the house or cottage on your own. You'll prepare meals yourself (though, of course, it's possible to order cook services additionally). The whole house with its surroundings will usually be fully at your disposal.

   As for the third variant of accommodation, such a lodge in Karelia usually consists of several cottages. Such a cottage can be divided into two or more parts with separate entrances. You can rent a part of a cottage or the whole cottage.

   The lodges usually have got one or more restaurants/cafes and offer great amount of additional services including various equipment rentals, guides for fishing and other activities, excursions, etc.

View of a countryside lodge in Karelia

   Be aware that even if the lodge has got a cafe or restaurant this fact doesn't mean that you can just come there at any moment during your stay and have meals. Very often meals should be ordered beforehand so, most probably, that will be on the moment when you book your accommodation and your holidays. Though, of course, there are some lodges with restaurants which you can decide to visit at any moment and where you can have meals with good choice of dishes.

   One more essential feature of the countryside rest in Karelia (though not only in Karelia) is sauna. That will usually be russian sauna but finnish sauna, smoke sauna and different variants are also more or less possible. Sauna may be included and not included into the rental price, and in the second case it may be rather costly. 

Inside russian sauna at one of the lodges



   A big sauna will be located in a separate building and used by all guests. A smaller sauna can be joined to the house and used only by those who stay in it, though that's not the rule sometimes.

   Cleaning services also may be included and not included into the price, the rental price often includes cleaning one time a week.

   Though shower is a usual thing here some guest houses (probably even most of the guest houses) and cottages have no shower, they have sauna and that's considered enough for a comfortable stay. So, pay your attention to that item if shower is anyhow necessary for you.

   To sum it up, it's necessary to pay your attention to these specific features of a place where you're going to stay and to decide what you necessarily need to make this stay comfortable. That will help you to spend an unforgettable time in beautiful karelian countryside, time that can bring a significant experience to your discovery of Russia.

Monastery of St. Alexander Svirsky. Visiting and Sightseeing.

   source: Website of Holy Trinity Alexander Svirsky Male Monastery

   Monastery of St. Alexander Svirsky is located 260 km (160 miles) from St. Petersburg and 21 km away from the small town of Lodeynoe Polye. This town is situated on the highway M18 going from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and further to the north, to Murmansk.

The monastery can be visited by car (bus) from St. Petersburg or from Petrozavodsk, the distance from Petrozavodsk is shorter - about 170 km (106 miles). The town of Lodeynoe Polye has got good train connection with both of these cities but to use it you should know how to find a car from Lodeynoe Pole to the monastery (and back).

The monastery was founded by famous russian Saint and spiritual figure Alexander Svirsky at the end of the 15th century. The cloister stood surrounded by wild forests among the heathen population of karelian, vepsian and other aboriginal tribes. From the moment of its foundation the popularity of the monastery grew quickly, the monastery attracted people and new monks.

Alexander Svirsky monastery stands on a shore of picturesque lake Roschinskoye. Most of its buildings are rather well-preserved though they need some restoration works. A lot of restoration works have been done since the revival of the monastery from 1997 year.



View of the monastery in 1912 year.



The most ancient building of the monastery preserved till nowadays is the stone church of the Intercession of Our Lady built by St. Alexander Svirsky himself in 1533 year. The church is built according to the novgorodian style.

During more than 500 years of its history the monastery had several periods of decline and prosperity. New monks settle here from 1997 year.

Restoration works

Alexander Svirsky monastery has got lots of buildings and occupies rather large area. The monastery consists of two parts: Preobrazhensky (Transfigutaion) Complex and Troitsky (St. Trinity) Complex. For the present time buildings of Preobrazhensky Complex are in more restored condition.

Preobrazhensky Complex of the Monastery

Preobrazhensky Cathedral (Transfiguration Cathedral)

Troitsky Complex of the Monastery (St. Trinity Complex)

Monastery Skete (Monastic Cell), about 10 km away from the monastery itself, with Temple of the Icon of Our Lady and Spring of Holy Water.

A View of the Monastery in Winter

At the nearest townships and villages you can find small hotels to stay overnight.
At the township of Svirskoye located not far from the monastery, there is a cafe "Palomnik" ("Pilgrim") where visitors of the monastery can have meals.

At the cafe.

Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part3 - Solovetsky Monastery and Fortress

   After arrival to the bay of Bolshoy Solovetsky island most of ship passengers follow the long concrete road that leads to the excursion office of Solovetsky museum. The office is situated just in front of a tower of Solovetsky fortress.

View of the Solovetsky monastery and fortress from the excursion office

Here the official guides of Solovetsky museum join their groups and the excursions inside the monastery actually begins.

Somewhere in the fortress centre you'll see the most essential building of the monastery - the cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, also commonly called just Transfiguration Cathedral (in russian "Preobrazhensky Sobor"). The cathedral looks very high and majestic and currently is being restored.

 

Solovetsky Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour

 The entrance to the cathedral is located right in front of the entrance to the fortress and monastery.

The Entrance of the Transfiguration Cathedral

The building of the cathedral is fully joint with other parts of the monastery. Inside this one great building you'll find a lot of interesting architectural details.

Closer View to an Arch in the Base of the Cathedral (Behind this Big Bell)

... But, at least when I visited Solovetsky monastery the excursion started not from the cathedral itself but from a small church located near these bells, on the photo below.

Bells Right in the Yard of the Monastery

After visiting the church we started rather long "walk" through different halls, stairs and passages inside monastery. Frankly speaking, it's not easy to remember all the architectural elements I've seen there.

Refectory of the Monastery (monks usually had their meals here)

A Window in the Refectory

One of the Passages in the Monastery

 

Somewhere Inside the Monastery



Again Somewhere Inside the Monastery

From the monastery itself we followed to the fortress walls and towers...

Inside One of the Fortress Towers