Countryside Holidays in Karelia: How to Have a Good Rest

   Though Russia is often imagined as a country with great part of rural population most of its citizens today live in cities or big towns and the urbanization process even seems to come to its top point soon. Growing problems of big cities make more and more people to "run away" from these "giant anthills" to the countryside. Nevertheless, the comfort level of the countryside life in Russia is still very low (and is not going to change much in the nearest future), that's why almost nobody prefers to move away from her/his city once and forever. Most of people prefer some medium variant and choose countryside to spend all their holidays and most of weekends.

   In recent 10-15 years the popularity of Karelia as a destination for countryside holidays has grown hugely. If to speak about the reasons there are two main ones. Firstly, Karelia is a region of Russia with no big cities and with astonishing and mostly untouched nature. Secondly, Karelia is situated not far from the two largest cities of Russia: Moscow and St. Petersburg, and not too far from the central part of Russia where the density of its urban population is the highest one.



Karelia on the map of Russia and Europe (see the top right of the map)



   Though some people buy houses in various places of Karelia, most of those who wish to have a rest here choose to rent a house/cottage or just to stay at a small countryside hotel.

   Here I'd like to point out two first typical features of all these places to have rest.

1. Such a cottage/house or a countryside hotel usually stands close to a lake. Being located right on a lake shore is actually a kind of standard for Karelia. This can be one of two largest lakes: Ladoga and Onego, or one of thousands smaller lakes the amount of which is really great here.

2. All the buildings are usually made of wood: pine logs and/or other wooden materials.

   A lake near the place where you stay will give you good additional opportunities for rest and entertainment such as fishing, boating or sailing and other things like that without wasting time and money.

   Wood is actually one of the most ecological materials, it is usually considered absolutely harmless and sometimes even useful for health. Solid wood doesn't contain and desorb any harmful substances so it won't contaminate air inside the building. Furthermore, pure wooden materials allow the air to circulate better between the inside and the outside of the building.



A wooden cottage made of pine logs, in Karelia

   Now let's try to classify all these countryside accommodations (at least how they can be categorized in Karelia).

1. Guest houses. Obviously, means "house for guests", more detailed explanation of the meaning will be given below.

2. Separate house/cottage. That means only one house or cottage for rent at that place. It can be situated in or near a village or even just be surrounded by forest.

3. Several or more cottages or small hotels - this variant most usually should be called "a lodge". Such a lodge also can be situated near a village or be surrounded by forest and lake.

   A real guest house means that its owners live in the same house too, or they live in a separate house but located very close to this one. Furthermore, the owners render at least a part of services for their guests themselves. A good guest house also means that you'll have some homemade products such as milk and dairy products, meat, some fresh vegetables in your meals.

   The second variant of accommodation means that you'll live in the house or cottage on your own. You'll prepare meals yourself (though, of course, it's possible to order cook services additionally). The whole house with its surroundings will usually be fully at your disposal.

   As for the third variant of accommodation, such a lodge in Karelia usually consists of several cottages. Such a cottage can be divided into two or more parts with separate entrances. You can rent a part of a cottage or the whole cottage.

   The lodges usually have got one or more restaurants/cafes and offer great amount of additional services including various equipment rentals, guides for fishing and other activities, excursions, etc.

View of a countryside lodge in Karelia

   Be aware that even if the lodge has got a cafe or restaurant this fact doesn't mean that you can just come there at any moment during your stay and have meals. Very often meals should be ordered beforehand so, most probably, that will be on the moment when you book your accommodation and your holidays. Though, of course, there are some lodges with restaurants which you can decide to visit at any moment and where you can have meals with good choice of dishes.

   One more essential feature of the countryside rest in Karelia (though not only in Karelia) is sauna. That will usually be russian sauna but finnish sauna, smoke sauna and different variants are also more or less possible. Sauna may be included and not included into the rental price, and in the second case it may be rather costly. 

Inside russian sauna at one of the lodges



   A big sauna will be located in a separate building and used by all guests. A smaller sauna can be joined to the house and used only by those who stay in it, though that's not the rule sometimes.

   Cleaning services also may be included and not included into the price, the rental price often includes cleaning one time a week.

   Though shower is a usual thing here some guest houses (probably even most of the guest houses) and cottages have no shower, they have sauna and that's considered enough for a comfortable stay. So, pay your attention to that item if shower is anyhow necessary for you.

   To sum it up, it's necessary to pay your attention to these specific features of a place where you're going to stay and to decide what you necessarily need to make this stay comfortable. That will help you to spend an unforgettable time in beautiful karelian countryside, time that can bring a significant experience to your discovery of Russia.

Monastery of St. Alexander Svirsky. Visiting and Sightseeing.

   source: Website of Holy Trinity Alexander Svirsky Male Monastery

   Monastery of St. Alexander Svirsky is located 260 km (160 miles) from St. Petersburg and 21 km away from the small town of Lodeynoe Polye. This town is situated on the highway M18 going from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and further to the north, to Murmansk.

The monastery can be visited by car (bus) from St. Petersburg or from Petrozavodsk, the distance from Petrozavodsk is shorter - about 170 km (106 miles). The town of Lodeynoe Polye has got good train connection with both of these cities but to use it you should know how to find a car from Lodeynoe Pole to the monastery (and back).

The monastery was founded by famous russian Saint and spiritual figure Alexander Svirsky at the end of the 15th century. The cloister stood surrounded by wild forests among the heathen population of karelian, vepsian and other aboriginal tribes. From the moment of its foundation the popularity of the monastery grew quickly, the monastery attracted people and new monks.

Alexander Svirsky monastery stands on a shore of picturesque lake Roschinskoye. Most of its buildings are rather well-preserved though they need some restoration works. A lot of restoration works have been done since the revival of the monastery from 1997 year.



View of the monastery in 1912 year.



The most ancient building of the monastery preserved till nowadays is the stone church of the Intercession of Our Lady built by St. Alexander Svirsky himself in 1533 year. The church is built according to the novgorodian style.

During more than 500 years of its history the monastery had several periods of decline and prosperity. New monks settle here from 1997 year.

Restoration works

Alexander Svirsky monastery has got lots of buildings and occupies rather large area. The monastery consists of two parts: Preobrazhensky (Transfigutaion) Complex and Troitsky (St. Trinity) Complex. For the present time buildings of Preobrazhensky Complex are in more restored condition.

Preobrazhensky Complex of the Monastery

Preobrazhensky Cathedral (Transfiguration Cathedral)

Troitsky Complex of the Monastery (St. Trinity Complex)

Monastery Skete (Monastic Cell), about 10 km away from the monastery itself, with Temple of the Icon of Our Lady and Spring of Holy Water.

A View of the Monastery in Winter

At the nearest townships and villages you can find small hotels to stay overnight.
At the township of Svirskoye located not far from the monastery, there is a cafe "Palomnik" ("Pilgrim") where visitors of the monastery can have meals.

At the cafe.

Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part3 - Solovetsky Monastery and Fortress

   After arrival to the bay of Bolshoy Solovetsky island most of ship passengers follow the long concrete road that leads to the excursion office of Solovetsky museum. The office is situated just in front of a tower of Solovetsky fortress.

View of the Solovetsky monastery and fortress from the excursion office

Here the official guides of Solovetsky museum join their groups and the excursions inside the monastery actually begins.

Somewhere in the fortress centre you'll see the most essential building of the monastery - the cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour, also commonly called just Transfiguration Cathedral (in russian "Preobrazhensky Sobor"). The cathedral looks very high and majestic and currently is being restored.

 

Solovetsky Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour

 The entrance to the cathedral is located right in front of the entrance to the fortress and monastery.

The Entrance of the Transfiguration Cathedral

The building of the cathedral is fully joint with other parts of the monastery. Inside this one great building you'll find a lot of interesting architectural details.

Closer View to an Arch in the Base of the Cathedral (Behind this Big Bell)

... But, at least when I visited Solovetsky monastery the excursion started not from the cathedral itself but from a small church located near these bells, on the photo below.

Bells Right in the Yard of the Monastery

After visiting the church we started rather long "walk" through different halls, stairs and passages inside monastery. Frankly speaking, it's not easy to remember all the architectural elements I've seen there.

Refectory of the Monastery (monks usually had their meals here)

A Window in the Refectory

One of the Passages in the Monastery

 

Somewhere Inside the Monastery



Again Somewhere Inside the Monastery

From the monastery itself we followed to the fortress walls and towers...

Inside One of the Fortress Towers

Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part2 - Sea Trip to Solovetsky

   As it has been mentioned in the previous part ships and motor boats sailing to Solovki from Kem usually leave Kem harbor in the morning. As for me I booked tickets for the motor ship "Vasily Kosyakov" with departure from Kem at 08:00.

Ships going from the karelian shore of the White sea cannot be called comfortable ones. Maybe due to the small distance and the time of sailing from the shore to Solovetsky archipelago, maybe due to lack of ships... ), I don't know. Larger ships are more comfortable than the smaller sea motor boats from point of view of the possibly stormy sea, but the motor boats can be considered enough safe for such trips, also.

Most comfortable ships, actually cruise ships, go to Solovki from Archangelsk.

The White sea is often misty in the morning and you won't see its splendid panoramas during the beginning of your sea trip to Solovetsky islands. I've "catched" the most interesting views on my way back, from the islands to Kem harbor.

View on the harbor of Kem and Rabocheostrovsk township



One of the motor boats sailing to Solovki islands

One of the first smaller islands of Solovetsky archipelago seen on the way from Kem



Islands of Kuzova archipelago

   Kuzova islands are covered by spruces (fir trees) - green color on the photo. The whole archipelago is a nature reserve.

   These photos were made on the way back to Kem, and as I've already mentioned in the previous part, it's worth taking a good binocular to view the panoramas of Kuzova and a good camera to make photos of these islands.

Again, a panorama of Kuzova islands



Visiting Solovki Islands. Travel Experience. Part1 - Getting to Solovki

   Solovki islands are probably the least achievable tourist attraction among the most famous ones situated in the north-western part of Russia.

First of all, you can travel to Solovki by plane, from Moscow or from the city of Archangelsk which stands on the eastern shore of the White sea. This way is rather expensive, of course, and the flights are not always regular, though it is the only way to visit the islands from October till May, i.e. for example, in winter.

Some people say that Solovki should be visited by boat, only. This way includes a sea trip and the panoramas of the White sea are surely worth seeing.

If you prefer to travel by boat you'll have to choose a route that will include one of the towns on the White sea coast. Ships sail to Solovki islands from the towns of Belomorsk and Kem on the western shore of the sea and from the city of Archangelsk situated on its eastern shore.

A boat trip from the town of Kem will be the shortest one, it will take about 2 hours 30 min, from the town of Belomorsk about twice longer. Sailing from Archangelsk is rather long sea trip - about 12 hours.

If you would like to compare the distances just have a look at this map of the White Sea

The map doesn't show the location of Kem, but this town is located right to the west from Solovki (Solovetsky islands) and thus to the north from Belomorsk.

I cannot say what way I would choose if it were equally easy for me to get to Kem, to Belomorsk and to Archangelsk. But if you prefer to travel by sea from Archangelsk I would advise you to keep in mind the "friendly" nature of the White sea which will meet you with very cold wind even in July and is more or less stormy through all summer.

As for me, starting my trip to Solovki from Petrozavodsk, my native city, I had to choose between Belomorsk and Kem, only.

As far as a ship sailing from Kem should pass the numerous islands of Kuzova archipelago on its way to Solovki I've chosen this variant. I guess there were some other small reasons for my choice, but this was the most important one.

Anticipating the description of this sea trip I'll say that to see well all the beautiful nature of Kuzova you should have binoculars and to make photos of it don't forget a very good camera, or at least one with very good zoom.

So, I decided to travel via Kem.

The next step was the timetable of ships from Kem. As a rule, all ships and sea motor boats sailing from Kem to Solovki leave Kem in the morning and return to it in the evening, only. So they make only one return trip to the islands, every day.

Most of trains going through Kem arrive at this town too late or too early for boarding a ship to Solovki. Going to Kem by car (bus, etc.) at night is not a good choice also, with this road. That's why the larger part of tourists travelling to Solovki have to stay at one of hotels in Kem for two nights: before and after the trip to the islands itself.

I got to know two hotels of this town "Kuzova" and "Prichal". "Prichal" is the most comfortable one, stands near the sea shore and, actually, close to the harbor of Kem. "Kuzova" is situated in the centre of the town and you'll need to take a taxi to get to the harbor from there. As far as all rooms at "Prichal" had been booked I could choose only "Kuzova".

Small room at "Kuzova" hotel

Here I've spent 2 nights during my trip:)

Hotel "Prichal"

"Prichal" hotel consists of several rather small wooden buildings - on the photo.
   Official website of "Prichal" hotel.

Walk along Petrozavodsk Embankment of Onego Lake

   2 kilometres of red granite blocks and other elements along the edge of Petrozavodsk bay...

Petrozavodsk embankment of Onego lake is a place of nice views and curious monuments.

Photos are taken along all the embankment, from its oldest end to the newest one...

The oldest part of the embankment, larger elements of the parapet are made of iron

Cargo harbor of Petrozavodsk can be seen on the way into the open lake. One of the granite blocks has been "knocked out" by waves of Onego

 

Cargo port, closer view

Large motor ship standing near a pier of passenger port

A hydrofoil has left the pier just a minute ago and goes to Kizhi island

Smaller ships are not exception to see here

  They are quite good choice for water trips on Onego, especially during a hot and windless day...



Further along the embankment



One of two cannons standing near the granite parapet

One of numerous strange monuments

Though not so strange, at least you've got some ideas about what you see

We "came" to the newest part of the embankment

Rotunda standind in front of the wedding palace (pink building) and the city's administration (farther behind it)

Pyramid

Steps down to the lake

View on the embankment

A small historical quarter of Petrozavodsk, near the newest part of the embankment

View with the newest end of the embankment

Some wooden sculptures and a monument



Farther into Petrozavodsk bay of Onego.

Narrow strait crossed by a pontoon bridge leads into lake Logmozero...



Hydrofoil Trip to Kizhi Island. Travel Experience

Kizhi Island which is probably most widely known as the location of famous Kizhi Pogost and Kizhi Museum is situated in the northern part of lake Onego. Lake Onego stretches a hundred kilometres from East to West and about 2-3 hunderd kilometres from South to North. This circumstance will play not the list role if you decide to visit Kizhi.

Kizhi is most easily achievable from May till September when there are no ice fields and no winds and storms on Onego. During this period you can travel to the island onboard any kind of ship suitable for sailing on large lake waters. If to speak about regular passenger ships to Kizhi they go from Petrozavodsk which is the largest port on Onego. The ships depart from the harbor situated in Petrozavodsk bay of Onego lake (on the photo).

View of Onego lake from Petrozavodsk bay

Ships used for the regular connection with Kizhi are called hydrofoils. A hydrofoil is simply a small speed motor ship which has got so called underwater wings and looks like this one on the photo...

A Hydrofoil standing in Petrozavodsk harbor

...or, like this one when moving on its underwater wings

A Hydrofoil sailing

A hydrofoil moves with a speed of 60 km/hour, that is thrice more than a usual motor ship and makes the distance of 80 km from Petrozavodsk to Kizhi in about 1 hour 15 min. You can buy tickets for the hydrofoil at the office of Petrozavodsk river station or book them via a travel agency. Hydrofoils usually go 3-5 times a day, every day.

After actually crossing the lake from the West to the East, viewing the panoramas with numerous islands of Onego, meeting lots of large and smaller motor ships going to and from Kizhi with passengers waving to you you'll arrive to this famous island yourself and step on its rocky ground.

After the arrival most of the passengers are moving to the excursion office which a kind of "entrance" to the most popular part of the museum's area. If you travel yourself you'll need to buy an entrance ticket and if you'd like to have a guided excursion - the choice I'd recommend - a ticket for this excursion. Upon buying the excursion ticket you join a group formed near the excursion office and go with it, otherwise you just go and see everything yourself.

Just several hundred metres farther from the excursion office you'll see the most famous exhibit of Kizhi island, the wonderful Kizhi Pogost with its great wooden church of Transfiguration, on the photo.

Transfiguration church of Kizhi Pogost

You can come inside the Kizhi Pogost through its gates and have a closest view on the Transfiguration church and its 22 domes which are actually the most difficult part of its construction. The domes are covered with small aspen shingles. If you try to count somehow the amount of these shingles on all the domes you'll get a number of 30,000 or more. 30,000 aspen shingles made with an axe.

Aspen domes and a closer view of the Transfiguration church

Kizhi Pogost also includes the Intercession church and the Bell Tower, both well seen on this photo.

Intercession church and the Bell tower of Kizhi Pogost

The Intercession church is opened for visitors so you can come inside it and view its interiors.

The Transfiguration church is closed for visiting till 2014 year for restoration works, so you cannot view its interiors... unless you're planning your trip for 2014 or later.

Close to Kizhi Pogost you'll see nice peasant houses like this one.

A Traditional Peasant House seen on Kizhi island

Inside one of the houses you can have an excursion with viewing an ethnographic exposition with lots of traditional objects from local peasants' life few hundred years ago.

Smaller wooden buildings can be seen everywhere and are an essential part of Kizhi landscapes.

Kizhi landscape

Hydrofoils usually depart 3 hours after the arrival to Kizhi, so you have 3 hours to explore the island and to return to your hydrofoil. There is a cafe on the island, but taking some kind of snack lunch with yourself is a good idea also. The excursion on Kizhi together with the hydrofoil trip to the island will take about 6 hours, fresh air and small foot walks very possibly will make you think of food.